Crush could describe the feeling many people have for this pretty restaurant, but it could also describe the state of the tiny foyer on a Saturday night. It's in a converted two-story house (there are dining rooms on both levels), but that's rarely apparent -- the beige-and-brown palette and the anachronistic '60s space-age white chairs look like they belong in a Downtown space. The food is very tasty, but it is also very heavy, and therefore not always appropriate for hot summer days. The braised short ribs are Crush's signature dish, and they're so good that as far as we're concerned, the menu could begin and end right there. However, seafood dishes are also quite competent, if not as outstanding as at Union. Some of the desserts are overly ambitious, but others are as out of this world as those strange chairs. The place doesn't seem to have one particular demographic -- you'll see cranky gourmands, couples, Belltown girls in beaded halter tops, Madison Park families, Capitol Hill hipsters, and so on. Despite the clamor for a table on the weekend, servers remain serene and you'll never be rushed out the door.