This is a great off-the-beaten-path place to try mildly ambitious Pacific Northwest fusion cooking and local wines. The white tablecloths and sometimes-stuffy patrons are what you'd expect at a higher-end place, but the friendly staff, eager chef, and reasonable prices confirm that this little bistro would rather be a neighborhood institution than a haughty five-star any day. Seafood is well represented, as are naturally raised meats and organic ingredients.
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