A certified organic restaurant by the much-lauded Maria Hines, Tilth serves up wonderful, inventive dishes that can be had as small plates or full entrées—the mini–duck burgers, seasonally inspired risottos, and wild salmon deserve special mention, and there's a vegan menu as well. The Craftsman house on Wallingford's busy commercial strip has been lovingly spruced up with leaf-green paint and local artwork. The small, homey dining room—backed by an open kitchen—occupies the main floor. Though overall dining here is a wonderful experience, Tilth has two notable drawbacks: the service can be a bit remote and the acoustics remain challenging despite upgrades. Tilth serves a delicious, busy brunch on weekends.