Fodor's Expert Review Captain Whidbey Inn

Steps from the shorefront of Penn Cove, this venerable historic lodge surrounded by old-growth firs was recently refreshed with more of a hip boutique hotel vibe (think Ace Hotel) while maintaining the rustic charm that's made it a favorite for decades. Accommodations have pedestal sinks but share bathrooms and are furnished with antiques and modern amenities; quarters on the north side have views of Penn Cove. More luxurious Lagoon Rooms, in a separate cedar motel, overlook a quiet, marshy expanse. A cluster of small, one-bedroom cabins have stone fireplaces and private baths, and share a hot tub. The on-site Ship of Fools restaurant and tavern are popular with locals.