Don't let the exterior fool you: behind the boarded-up storefront hung with an illuminated Pepsi sign is an exemplary restaurant. The formal dining room upstairs, the lively bistro downstairs, and the cozy mezzanine in between share a French-influenced menu that has Pacific Rim and American Southwest touches. The heated patio and urban terrace are also lovely dining spaces in fall and spring. For a starter try the panfried sweetbread medallions; entrées include steak chinoise with fresh ginger, tamari, and scallion cream sauce. The chefs source their products from local markets and farms, so the menu changes seasonally and the wine list is 300 labels strong. For night owls, they offer a late night menu of appetizers, soups, salads, and sandwiches.