South Texas and the Coast Places

Nuevo Progreso

Into the void created by all the problems of the other border cities has stepped the little town of Nuevo Progreso (often simply called Progreso, though technically Progreso is the U.S. town, and Nuevo Progreso is the Mexican one). It lies south of Weslaco, Texas, but is not directly across from any Texas counterpart. Most visitors park in convenient lots for $2 and walk across the bridge for a 25 toll.

Pick up a map at the visitor information stand near the customs office after you cross into Progreso.

As soon as visitors cross the border, they know why Texans flock to the shops in Progreso. The scene is exactly as Hollywood might have drawn it up. The dusty streets are highlighted by a variety of brightly colored buildings that line a long stretch of Avenida Benito Juarez, the main street that bustles all day with shoppers and Mexican hawkers of all ages and selling styles. Dentists and pharmacies occupy many of the storefronts: Winter Texans living the cheap life in South Texas like to cross for affordable procedures and highly discounted drugs.

Shoppers cruise the sidewalks with a cold beer in hand while Mexican children offer shoe shines and wind chimes, young men sell pirated DVDs, women stand at the front of their salons offering haircuts and the infamous hair braiding, while the older men sell everything in between: piñatas, jewelry, chimineas (small Mexican stand-alone chimneys that people put on their porches with little fires in them, or just as decoration), glassware, lucha libre (Mexican wrestling) masks—anything you can imagine. "Great rates! Cheap price," they all say as you pass by.

All of Progreso boils down to one big blur of touristy shopping mania. The vast majority of visitors never step off Avenida Benito Juarez, and the crush of shops and stalls makes it hard to distinguish one area from another. This thriving market is aimed squarely at American and Canadian tourists and their desire for cheap prescription medication, affordable dental services, and discounted alcohol and tobacco. Everything that pops up in between is to entice the gringos to spend more of their money on souvenirs, hand-crafted housewares, and oddities. Everyone seems to find that one item that they just can't leave without. Most shops on Juarez Avenue close at 6.

Make this a day trip only. Residents of Progreso we spoke with were pretty adamant that there's nothing for gringos off the main drag.