The operative word at this popular steakhouse is "prime": prime beef, a prime setting, and a clientele primed for coddling, conversation, and cholesterol. The Steakhouse, poshest of the Pappas restaurant dynasty, gains a clubby look from dark wood, cushy booths, and phones at the tables. Thumbs-up to a beefsteak-tomato-and-Roquefort salad (big enough to share) and to the fork-tender New York strip steak with peppercorn sauce. Creamy mashed potatoes and giant fried onion
rings provide delicious accompaniments to fillets. Expect a wait, even with reservations.