Part of a local chain, County Line has a few too many amenities to be considered a classic Central Texas barbecue joint. Chairs instead of bargain-basement picnic setups, little loaves of multigrain bread on tables, and functional air-conditioning make things downright civilized. But families, older couples, and anyone seeking a reasonably civilized traditional meal in bucolic surroundings enjoy the specialty slow-smoked ribs—huge slabs of beef and tender pork. The lakeside
branch on F.M. 2222 is particularly picturesque.