In the restored cellar of a 1918 brick building on the more sedate end of 6th is this casually chic boîte owned by actress Sandra Bullock. (But if you come here to gawk at celebs, you'll likely leave disappointed.) Bess wins out with an eclectic mix of European and Southern American comfort food, including an artful croque monsieur: country ham, béchamel, and Gruyère piled atop sourdough toast, served with crisp, thin fries. Other popular entrées include shepherd's
pie, grilled wild salmon on toasted herb spaetzle, and porcini-crusted halibut. Bullock designed the interior, which suggests an early-20th-century artists' sanctum, with framed French ads, exposed brick pillars, some half-clad in quilted red leather. The staff is quietly efficient. Sunday brunch is served, and the bistro is open until the small hours.