Pricey-but-excellent fish, shellfish, and steak are served in handsome surroundings that suggest a businessmen's yacht club at Truluck's, part of an upscale chain with restaurants in Texas and Florida. The specialty here is stone crab: the company owns a fleet of crab boats and its own fisheries in Florida. Every Monday is all-you-can-eat Jonah crab claw night, but you can get them any day of the week at the Downtown and Northwest (near the Arboretum) locations. Alaskan
king crab is also expertly rendered, if expensive. Try the "superlump" crab cake appetizer, the hot-and-crunchy trout over citrus aioli sauce with a mango-jalapeño puree, the Thai-chili scallops, and any of the steaks. Service is professional; the Northwest location is so dimly lit that waiters regularly lend out flashlights so you can read the menu. Both locations have elegant bars, with occasional live piano music.