On an up-and-coming block near City Hall, Lamberts draws businessmen, Web types, trenchermen, and foodies for its "fancy barbecue," aka stylish twists on Texas classics. You know this isn't your father's barbecue joint when you hear Belle & Sebastian on the speakers instead of LeAnn Rimes or Merle Haggard. Chimay beer is available on draft, and the Frito pie costs $10 and contains goat cheese. Appetizers range from Asian-style crispy wild-boar ribs to broiled
Gulf oysters with apple-smoked bacon. Desserts, like lemon chess pie with blueberry sauce, are tangy-sweet and satisfying. They even make a decent cappuccino. Service is competent and cheerful. The restaurant is housed in a historic two-story 1873 brick building; the front room has whitewashed brick, green leatherette '60s banquettes, and a bar serving top single-malt Scotches. The second floor has a bar with a few tables and a stage where bands play the nights away.