Since European chef Nico Romo raised it to a high culinary level, Fish's popularity has soared. Savvy foodies have embraced the French/Asian cuisine, and others have followed suit. (In 2010, Romo became the youngest person to earn the title of Master Chef of France.) Start with the dim sum appetizer; it's more beautiful than a flower arrangement. Or try the sweet-chili calamari that gives the menu a new kick. The bouillabaisse with coconut-lemongrass broth and ginger croutons
is one-of-a-kind. Increasing business has triggered a major renovation of the spaces, which blend antiqued mirrors and stainless steel, and a new dining room has gone into the adjacent building. The original bar has tripled in size, all the better for a pre-dinner cocktail.