Charleston Restaurants

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The Grocery Review

Executive chef and owner Kevin Johnson's new restaurant sits in impressive quarters near the corner of Cannon and King streets. Cast in dim lighting and painted concrete, the spacious Grocery projects an earthy, unassuming presence. The high wainscoting and tall shelving filled with jams, pickled vegetables, and vintage kitchenware match the restaurant's aim—and title. Similarly, the menu suggests a humble, considerate approach, as the dishes represent local flavors: liver mousse mixed with ripe persimmons provides a light, fluffy taste smeared on crunchy, buttered bread. Wood-roasted clams offer native appeal, emboldened with merguez sausage and a light chili. A rich pot roast is made from grass-fed beef, and the delicate scamp grouper crowns a bed of field peas, crab, and perloo (made from Charleston Gold rice). If you visit during the hot months, try the watermelon gazpacho with stone crab, too. It tastes like summer in a bowl.

Updated: 11-28-2012

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