This former warehouse with atmospheric brick-and-stucco walls has a chef's table that looks directly into the open kitchen. It's a great place to perch if you can "take the heat," as Chef Frank Lee, who wears a baseball cap instead of a toque, is one of the city's culinary characters. He is known for his talent in prepping game, and his venison is exceptional. Many of the specialties are served as small plates, which makes them perfect for sharing. The braised lamb shank
with a ragout of white beans, arugula, and a red demi-glace is divine. Lunch can be as inexpensive as $9.95 for something as memorable as mussels with spinach, grape tomatoes, and smoked bacon.