French owner Perig Goulet moves agilely through the petite dining room of this unpretentious bistro. With back-to-back chairs making things cozy (and noisy), this place could easily be in Paris. Kevin Kelly chooses the wines—predominantly French and esoteric—and they befit the authentic fare. Goulet is especially proud of his country pâté, from a recipe handed down from his grand-mère. Other favorites include duck salad, scallops sautéed in cognac, and shrimp
in a leek sauce. Dieters may be shocked by the golden frites fried in duck fat and served with aioli, but they keep putting their hands in the basket. Check the blackboard for fish straight off the boats.