Among Federal Hill's 30 or so restaurants, Siena generates the most buzz, and for good reason: the branzino (Chilean sea bass) with scallops in a creamy scallion sauce and the pasta with a rich Bolognese are legendary. It's best to split an appetizer, as portions here are huge, though you might want to keep the delicious involtini di melanzane, eggplant rolled with prosciutto and ricotta and baked in tangy marinara sauce, all to yourself. The silky-white
pasta e fagioli under the menu's antipasti section is a meal in itself. The excellent wine list is usually augmented by special additions available by bottle or glass, and the well-trained waitstaff can help you make the perfect pairing. Ask for a table by the large windows, as the stylish back dining room can get noisy.