What might pass as a no-frills luncheonette from the street actually turns out some of the best breakfast food in Rhode Island, plus extraordinary wonderful lunches and dinners. Young chef Derek Wagner delights morning patrons with such memorable fare as vanilla-battered French toast with warm fruit compote and rosemary ham; later in the day, he prepares a knockout barbecue pulled-pork sandwich with cheddar and caramelized onion, as well as rare-seared tuna with mashed parsnip-potatoes and sage jus. Service is low-key, and the dining room basic, with a polished wood counter and a row of tightly spaced tables—food is the star here.
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