For many years this classic wood-panel restaurant has been a favorite among Philadelphia's most discerning diners, who enjoyed steaks and chops in more-than-generous portions and the always-true-to-their-roots Italian specialties. The superior quality of ingredients still shines, but with the help of an inspired chef, Gene Betz, a few more innovative twists sneak into the outstanding preparations, although not so many that they intrude on the sensibilities of the regulars. Reservations are recommended.
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