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The opening of this hip, industrial-chic trattoria by chef Marc Vetri rendered his talents more accessible to those who don't have the foresight to make reservations months in advance at his celebrated eponymous restaurant nearby. (He also runs Osteria in Center City West.) The small plates of Roman comfort food feature interesting flavor combos, like mint lamb ragu, roasted duck with pickled-mustard-seed sauce, and swordfish meatballs with polenta. Try to grab one of the six first-come, first-serve stools at the chef's counter to watch the James Beard-award-winning action.
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