This BYOB in a former corner food market is noisy, cramped, and cash-only. Because of its no-reservation policy, people waiting for a table stand pressed up against the door. Still, they keep packing them in. Why? It's the Italian/New American bistro's attention to detail, visible in the exquisite artisanal cheese plate, the perfectly seared scallops, the separate olive-oil menu, and the homemade triangle-shaped pasta.