Even in a town filled with nationally-acclaimed chefs, the arrival of a new Ripert outpost in Philadelphia hasn't gone unnoticed. The Frenchman and his chef-de-cuisine Jennifer Carroll have met the high expectations of his eagerly waiting fans with an expertly-crafted menu that includes the expected staples—roast chicken, bouillabaisse, and butter-smothered trout—then exceeded them with inspired local touches such as a lip-smacking soft pretzel appetizer and malted "TastyKake" ice cream. Perhaps more noteworthy, however, is the jazzy makeover given to the Jeffersonian rotunda of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, which hosts the restaurant's varied nooks. Gone are the lounge's overstuffed jacquard sofas, and in is a streamlined Deco look, accented with striking, albeit rather jarring, towers lit in jewel tones. In a separate dining room, all is sedate, sophisticated, and tryst-ready.
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