Fodor's Expert Review La Locanda del Ghiottone

Literally "the place of the gluttons," the small L-shaped dining room gets loud and crowded as patrons arrive and waiters shout orders from tableside into the open kitchen. It's all part of the charm. The server will forbid you from putting cheese on fish (a house rule), then he'll ask sweetly after your mother. This is homey food, comfort food—tender gnocchi, platters of pasta brimming with fresh seafood, and osso buco, to name a few of the amply proportioned dishes.