Foodies clamor for David Ansill's inventive, sophisticated small plates and his much lauded use of such adventurous items as bone marrow, lamb's tongue, and duck eggs. But all of the hullabaloo over scary ingredients subsides once you sample the exquisite bites that arrive one after another from the kitchen -- feathery, perfectly shirred eggs; sumptuous pork belly pieces on a bed of spaetzle twists; tender grilled octopus with a tang of sherry vinaigrette. Ansill's wife, Catherine, makes the desserts. Nothing beats her dark chocolate panini on a buttery brioche served with a mound of mascarpone.
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