Long before "fusion" was an official foodie term, the inspired chef here took a wholly different approach to his native Thai cuisine, pairing it with French ingredients and techniques. As a result, you're just as likely to find escargots on the menu as chicken saté. Others have followed suit, but Nan is still bewitching diners with an intoxicating mix of flavors: salmon with lemongrass, pork cooked with thyme and dried fruits, and pheasant with tamarind, to name just a few. The simple three-course lunch is a bargain; the fruit tart is ethereal. The service, however, can be spotty.