A devoted clientele has helped transform this simple café into a sophisticated bistro. The location across from the Kimmel Center hasn't hurt, either. The food is creative, with hints of French and other cuisines mingling with the standard Italian flavors. The fried calamari, for example, is served with mango chutney. The vegetable Napoleon satisfies vegetarians; carnivores might prefer the chicken osso buco served with polenta or the seafood cioppino. Desserts made by the owner's mother, Livia, are outstanding.