Fodor's Expert Review 38 Central

Set inside a handsomely restored 1910 downtown building, this casual yet smartly furnished bistro specializes in comfort-driven fare with notably urbane flourishes. The classic fish-and-chips, for instance, are prepared with fresh local lingcod and battered in a champagne sauce, while "grown up" mac and cheese comes with Rogue Creamery cheddar, aged Parmesan, and hardwood-smoked bacon. An oft-changing roster of starters, soups, salads, and sides (try haricots verts with shallots) are ideal for sharing.