Portland

Among North America’s most livable, creative, and culinarily blessed cities, leafy Portland receives plenty of recognition these days for its youthful energy, left-of-center political bent, forward-thinking urban planning and bike friendliness, and eco-minded, locavore-driven ethic. Often compared with Austin, Brooklyn’s Williamsburg neighborhood, and San Francisco’s Mission District, this city of about 600,000 teems with new residents and visitors, many of them curious to know just how accurately the cheeky indie TV show Portlandia has captured the city’s unabashedly earnest hipster vibe.

What you might miss if you focus too closely on Portland’s hipster "it" factor is that this picturesque, easy-to-navigate, midsize metropolis has plenty to offer visitors of all styles and ages—you needn’t be a devotee of artisan-roasted single-origin coffee or the finer points of urban cycling to appreciate the city’s considerable charm.

A major draw is Portland’s proximity to astounding natural scenery, from amazingly dense-wooded and tranquil forest reserves within walking distance of downtown to breathtaking coastal panoramas, snowcapped volcanoes, a thriving wine country, and a mesmerizing river gorge all within a 90-minute drive. Unless you’re in town for just a day or two, plan at least an afternoon getaway to one of these nearby oases, which also make memorable overnight getaways.

Unlike larger West Coast cities, such as Seattle and San Francisco, Portland doesn’t contain many iconic attractions: it’s a pretty but unprepossessing city with a modest but attractive skyline and a laid-back personality. Crime is low, locals are famously friendly, and most businesses and attractions cater enthusiastically to both kids and adults. It’s a fine destination for urban strolls, and it’s easy and relatively cheap to get around using public transportation (MAX light rail, streetcars, buses) and bikes. Also (you didn’t read it here), despite its eco-conscious reputation, Portland is a remarkably easy city to get around by car, with ample (and often free) street parking in many neighborhoods, especially on the East Side.

Don’t miss out on the city’s handful of terrific museums—the Portland Art Museum and Oregon Museum of Science and Industry (aka OMSI) among them. And be sure to check out some of the lovely greenery that fringes downtown, from Washington Park and Forest Park in the West Hills to tree-shaded Tom McCall Waterfront Park along the banks of the Willamette River. As you plan your visit, remember that the truly outstanding attractions in Portland are its many distinctive neighborhoods—and the indie-spirited businesses that prosper in them.

Food tourism thrives in many of these districts, which include downtown’s Pearl District and West End, and a slew of neighborhoods and commercial strips on the East Side. Spend a little time in any of these pockets, and you’ll discover critically acclaimed coffee roasters, microbreweries, urban wineries, craft distilleries, food carts, live-music halls, and both low-frills and highly ambitious restaurants. These neighborhoods, some of which retain a fiercely countercultural mindset and others that—to the disdain of purists—reflect a more gentrified and upscale tenor, also contain quite a few boutiques and shops specializing in crafts, housewares, artwork, books, fashion, and other—often handmade—lifestyle-themed goods.

Those who most appreciate Portland arrive here with a voracious appetite for new experiences, not just for innovative food and drink but also for both urban and rural adventures. The comparatively reasonable prices you’ll find in bars, restaurants, shops, and hotels (except during the increasingly pricey summer high season) are an added bonus. The inviting pedestrian- and bike-friendly cityscape and easy proximity to nature are Portland’s capstones. You could probably see the city’s must-see attractions in a day or two, but many visitors to this leafy metropolis bisected by the beautiful Willamette River—its 10 distinctive bridges themselves a popular draw—simply venture from one eclectic neighborhood to the next, constantly discovering delicious and delightful new diversions.

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  • 1. Central East Side

    This expansive 681-acre tract of mostly industrial and commercial buildings was largely ignored by all but local workers until shops, galleries, and restaurants began opening in the neighborhood's handsome, high-ceilinged buildings beginning in the 1990s. These days, it's a legitimately hot neighborhood for shopping, craft-spirits and wine-tasting, and coffeehouse-hopping by day, and dining and bar-going at night. The neighborhood lies just across the Willamette River from Downtown—it extends along the riverfront from the Burnside Bridge south to the Oregon Museum of Science and Industry (OMSI) and Division Street, extending east about a dozen blocks to S.E. 12th Avenue. If you're coming by car, street parking is becoming tougher with all the new development but still possible to find, especially on quieter side streets.

    Willamette River to S.E. 12th Ave. from Burnside to Division Sts., Oregon, 97214, USA
  • 2. Division Street

    Back in the early 1970s, Division Street (aka "Southeast Division") was earmarked for condemnation as part of a proposed—and thankfully never built—freeway that would have connected Downtown to Mt. Hood. For many years, this street sat forlornly, just a long stretch of modest buildings and empty lots. These days, Southeast Division—no longer threatened with condemnation—is one of the hottest restaurant rows on the West Coast, and sleek three- and four-story contemporary condos and apartments are popping up like dandelions. If culinary tourism is your thing, head to the 10 blocks of Southeast Division from about 26th to 39th Avenues. The main draw here is mostly food-and-drink related, and you'll also find a growing number of noteworthy restaurants and bars extending all the way to 12th Avenue to the west, and 50th Avenue to the east. You may hear some locals refer to the western end of the neighborhood as "Division/Clinton" referring to Clinton Street, a block south of Division, which has a clutch of great eateries and beautiful early- to mid-20th-century bungalows and houses, mostly from 27th to 20th Avenues.

    S.E. Division St., and parts of S.E. Clinton St., from 12th to 50th Aves., Oregon, 97202, USA
  • 3. ENSO Winery

    Southeast | Winery/Brewery/Distillery

    Based in a large garagelike space in Southeast Portland's trendy Buckman neighborhood, ENSO is the creation of young and talented winemaker Ryan Sharp, who sources grapes from Washington, California, and Oregon to produce superb wines that are quickly earning notice in the national wine press. Notable varietals include Petite Sirah, Malbec, Dry Riesling, and the especially popular L'American blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and Mourvedre. The high-ceilinged, industrial-chic tasting room—with exposed air ducts, a timber-beam ceiling, and a wall of windows (open on warm days)—has become one of the neighborhood's favorite wine bars, serving local Olympic Provisions charcuterie, Woodblock chocolates, Steve's Cheese Bar cheeses, and Little T Baker breads, plus local microbrews and a few wines, mostly from other Portland producers.

    1416 S.E. Stark St., Buckman, Portland, Oregon, 97214, USA
    503-683–3676
  • 4. Hawthorne District

    Stretching from the foot of Mt. Tabor to S.E. 12th Avenue (where you'll find a terrific little food-cart pod), with some blocks far livelier than others, this eclectic commercial thoroughfare was at the forefront of Portland's hippie and LGBTQ+ scenes in the 1960s and 1970s. As the rest of Portland's East Side has become more urbane and popular among hipsters, young families, students, and the so-called creative class over the years, Hawthorne has retained an arty, homegrown flavor. An influx of trendy eateries and retailers opening alongside the still-colorful and decidedly low-frills thrift shops and old-school taverns and cafés makes for a hodgepodge of styles and personalities—you could easily spend an afternoon popping in and out of boutiques, and then stay for happy hour at a local nightspot or even later for dinner.

    S.E. Hawthorne Blvd., between S.E. 12th and S.E. 50th Aves., Oregon, 97214, USA
  • 5. Mt. Tabor Park

    A playground on top of a volcano cinder cone? Yup, that's here. The cinders, or glassy rock fragments, unearthed in this 190-acre park's construction were used to surface the respite's roads; the ones leading to the very top are closed to cars, but popular with cyclists. They're also popular with cruisers—each August there's an old-fashioned soapbox derby. Picnic tables and tennis, basketball, and volleyball courts make Mt. Tabor Park a popular spot for outdoor recreation, but plenty of quiet, shaded trails and wide-open grassy lawns with panoramic views of the Downtown skyline appeal to sunbathers, hikers, and nature lovers. The whole park is closed to cars on Wednesday.

    S.E. 60th Ave. and S.E. Salmon St., Oregon, 97215, USA
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  • 6. Oregon Museum of Science and Industry

    Hundreds of engaging exhibits draw families to this outstanding interactive science museum, which also contains the Empirical Theater (featuring Portland's biggest screen), and the Northwest's largest planetarium. The many permanent and touring exhibits are loaded with enough hands-on play for kids to fill a whole day exploring robotics, ecology, rockets, animation, and outer space. Moored in the Willamette River as part of the museum is a 240-foot submarine, the USS Blueback, which can be toured for an extra charge. OMSI also offers some very cool event programming for adults, including the hugely popular monthly OMSI After Dark nights, where "science nerds" can enjoy food, drink, and science fun, and the twice-monthly OMSI Science Pub nights, where local and national experts lecture on a wide range of topics in the museum's Empirical Theater.

    1945 S.E. Water Ave., Oregon, 97214, USA
    503-797–4000

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: Museum $16, planetarium $7.50, Empirical Theater Show $7.50, submarine $8.50, parking $5, Closed Mon. early Sept.–early Mar.
    View Tours and Activities
  • 7. SE Wine Collective

    Southeast | Winery/Brewery/Distillery

    Set along Division Street's white-hot restaurant row, this growing collective houses 11 small wineries and has quickly become the city's leading incubator for vino entrepreneurs. The spacious facility includes a large, light-filled tasting bar with glass roll-up doors (offering a peek at the vinification process) and a main wall and bench seating made from old wine barrels. The tasting bar is also a wine bar, so you can sample the artisanal wines produced on-site, or order a flight, glass, or bottle (to go or to enjoy on-site) as well as tasty small plates from an extensive menu. Although Oregon is chiefly known for Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay, the wineries at the collective produce a richly varied assortment of varietals, including a racy Sauvignon Blanc from Pampleau, a supple Gamay Noir from Division Wine Making, and a peppery Cabernet Franc from Willful Wines.

    2425 S.E. 35th Pl., Portland, Oregon, 97214, USA
    503-208–2061

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: Mon. and Wed.–Fri. 4 pm–10 pm, Sat. 1 pm–10 pm, Sun. 1 pm–8 pm, Closed Tues.
  • 8. Tilikum Crossing Bridge

    Downtown Portland's collection of striking bridges gained a new member in 2015 with the opening of this sleek, cable-stayed bridge a few steps from Oregon Museum of Science and Industry (OMSI). Nicknamed "the Bridge of the People," the Tilikum is unusual in that it's the largest car-free bridge in the country—it's open only to public transit (MAX trains, buses, and streetcars), bikes, and pedestrians. The 1,720-foot-long bridge connects Southeast Portland with the South Waterfront district and rewards those who stroll or cycle across it with impressive skyline views.

    Tilikum Crossing, Oregon, 97214, USA
  • 9. Crystal Springs Rhododendron Garden

    For much of the year, this nearly 10-acre retreat near Reed College is frequented mainly by bird-watchers and those who want a restful stroll. But starting in April, thousands of rhododendron bushes and azaleas burst into flower, attracting visitors in larger numbers. The peak blooming season for these woody shrubs is May; by late June the show is over.

    5801 S.E. 28th Ave., Oregon, 97202, USA
    503-267–7509

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: $5 (free on Mon.)
  • 10. Kidd's Toy Museum

    Central East Side

    Unusually, you need to knock to gain admission to this toy museum (it's open regularly only on Thursdays and Fridays, but you can visit other times by appointment). Once inside, there are oodles of antique toys—from cars and trains to dolls and teddy bears—and banks. It's a quiet place, obviously the beloved compilation of a dedicated collector, namely Frank Kidd. There are some more recent die-cast items, but the toys range mostly from 1869 to 1939; be aware that these older toys can be shockingly racist as was customary during that time period and would never be produced today. Keep in mind that younger kids may not find the museum atmosphere especially kid-friendly; it's better suited to older kids and vintage-toy enthusiasts.

    1301 S.E. Grand Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97214, USA
    503-233–7807

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: Mon.–Thurs. noon–6, Fri. 1–6, Closed Sun.–Wed.
  • 11. Laurelhurst Park

    Laurelhurst

    Manicured lawns, stately trees, and a wildfowl pond make this 31-acre southeast Portland park a favorite urban hangout since 1912. Laurelhurst, one of the city's most beautiful neighborhoods, surrounds the park. It was the first city park to be named on the National Register of Historic Places.

    SE 39th Ave. between SE Ankeny and SE Oak Sts., Portland, Oregon, 97214, USA

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: Daily dawn–dusk
  • 12. New Deal Distillery

    Central East Side

    One of the top spirits makers in Southeast Portland's Distillery Row, New Deal has become nationally regarded for its eponymous vodka, which also comes in several flavored varieties, including Hot Monkey Pepper and Mud Puddle Bitter Chocolate. Visitors to the tasting room can sample limited releases and seasonal products as well as other New Deal standards, like aromatic gin and coffee liqueur made with beans from nearby Water Avenue Coffee.

    900 S.E. Salmon St., Portland, Oregon, 97214, USA
    503-234–2513

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: Wed.–Sun. noon–5, Closed Mon.–Tues.
  • 13. Oaks Amusement Park

    Sellwood/Moreland

    There's a small-town charm to this park that has bumper cars, thrill rides, miniature golf, and roller-skating. A 360-degree-loop roller coaster and other high-velocity, gravity-defying contraptions border the midway, along with a carousel and Ferris wheel. The wooden skating rink, built in 1905, is the oldest continuously operating one in the United States, and it features a working Wurlitzer organ. To help protect it from Willamette River flooding, the rink floats on airtight iron barrels. There are outdoor concerts in summer.

    7805 S.E. Oaks Park Way, Portland, Oregon, 97202, USA
    503-233–5777

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: Park free; multiride bracelets $19 and up; individual-ride tickets $4.95, Late-Mar.–Apr., weekends noon–5; May–mid-June and early Sept.–early Oct., weekends noon–7; mid-June–early Sept., Tues.–Thurs. noon–9, Fri. and Sat. noon–10, Sun. noon–7. Roller rink open daily year-round, Closed Oct.–mid-Mar.
  • 14. Oregon Rail Heritage Center

    Central East Side

    Train-history buffs aren't the only ones who'll appreciate the three steam-driven locomotives on display here. The center, which runs mostly on donations, also plays host to diesel locomotives, historic passenger cars, and other nuggets of train days gone by. The ORHC offers hugely popular, family-oriented "Holiday Express" excursions on weekends between Thanksgiving and mid-December, departing from the station at Oaks Amusement Park.

    2250 S.E. Water Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97214, USA
    503-233–1156

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: Free, Thurs.–Sun. 1–5, Closed Mon.–Wed.
  • 15. Sellwood District

    Sellwood/Moreland

    The pleasant, historic neighborhood that begins east of the Sellwood Bridge was once a separate town. Annexed by Portland in the 1890s, it retains a modest charm, with stores and restaurants along 13th Avenue carrying an interesting mix of goods and edibles. Just north is the Westmoreland neighborhood, another cluster of mostly indie retail and dining centered around the intersection of S.E. Milwaukee Avenue and S.E. Bybee Boulevard.

    S.E. 13th Ave. between S.E. Malden and S.E. Clatsop Sts., Portland, Oregon, 97202, USA
  • 16. Vera Katz Eastbank Esplanade

    Central East Side

    A stroll along this 1½-mile pedestrian and cycling path across from Downtown is one of the best ways to experience the Willamette River and Portland's bridges close-up. Built in 2001, the esplanade runs along the east bank of the Willamette River between the Hawthorne and Steele bridges, and features a 1,200-foot walkway that floats atop the river, a boat dock, and public art. Pedestrian crossings on both bridges link the esplanade to Tom McCall Waterfront Park, making a 3-mile loop.

    S.E. Water Ave. between Hawthorne Bridge and Steel Bridge, Portland, Oregon, 97239, USA
  • 17. Westward Whiskey

    One of the stalwarts of Distillery Row, this highly respected outfit (formerly known as House Spirits) opened in 2004 and now occupies this spacious 14,000-square-foot facility. It's earned international acclaim for its Westward American Single Malt Whiskey, made with locally sourced barley. In the cozy tasting room, you can also browse a fine selection of barware, books, and other booze-related gifts. Tours are offered every afternoon, but weekends are busy, so best to reserve a spot in advance. There's an additional tasting room at Portland International Airport and a bottle shop in Nob Hill. If you plan to check out a few of the spots on Distillery Row, be sure to order a Distillery Row Passport (www.distilleryrowpdx.com) or download the app, which gives credit toward tastings and tours and discounts at a number of restaurants, hotels, and shops around the city.

    65 S.E. Washington St., Oregon, 97214, USA
    503-235–3174

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