This quintessential example of Portland's innovative cuisine is in a nondescript red building with subtle signage. Inside, the seating is communal, at two large tables that seat eight and 16. The six-course prix-fixe dinner (and four-course brunch on Sunday) changes weekly, depending on the meat at the market. The dishes that come from the open kitchen live up to the restaurant's name: there might be chicken and duck-liver mousse, wine- and truffle-braised beef, foie-gras bon bons, or steak tartare with quail-egg toast. Vegetarians may find it a struggle to eat here. There are two seatings per night at 6 and 8:45; view the week's menu online starting Tuesday afternoon.