From a simple marina tackle shop comes a woodsy boathouse, replete with pine, Mexican tiling, Native American art, and water as far as the eye can see. Sophisticated homestyle dishes are zesty variations on such core elements as New York steak, salmon, pork, and duck. Many fine Northwest and California wines are available by the bottle or glass. Lovely food and the management's genuine joie de vivre give the Boathouse its unique flavor. Reservations are not required, but best to make them for dinner if you are driving from Sisters.