It can get busy (hour-long waits) and noisy (600 seats), but locals and people from around the world (their photos, many celebrities among them, line the walls) gush about the seafood and don't mind the no-frills atmosphere. In 1938 when the Sanitary was founded, many fish houses were ill kept. The owners wanted to signal that theirs was different; clean, simple, and generous are still the bywords at this waterfront place where diners sit at long wooden tables.
Have seafood prepared almost any way you want it—steamed, fried, grilled, or broiled. The two-course deluxe shore dinner has, among other things, shrimp, oysters, crabs, and fish. Hush puppies and coleslaw come with every meal.