Co., or, as it's pronounced, "Company," took the New York pizza scene by red-sauce-scented storm when it opened in early 2009. Bread master Jim Lahey, who made a name for himself at the Sullivan Street Baking Company, crafts simple but memorable pies, the dough and crust of which play a starring role. The simple Margherita (tomato sauce, mozzarella, basil) is a good way to sample Co.'s fare, but diners are always tempted by unorthodox pizzas like the carmelized-onion-walnut-puree
pie or the béchamel-and-Parmesan-topped version. If you can, take a few friends, so you can order several pies. This casual Chelsea pizzeria is anything but half baked.