Devotees mourned the return of namesake chef Naomichi Yasuda to Japan, but things are in able hands with his handpicked successor, Misturu Tamura. Here, the sleek bamboo-lined interior is as elegant as the food. Whether using fish flown in daily from Japan or the creamiest sea urchin, the chef makes sushi so fresh and delicate, it melts in your mouth. A number of special appetizers change daily (crispy fried eel backbone is a surprising treat), and a fine selection of
sake and beer complements the lovely food. Try to sit at the bar, which was hand-crafted by Yasuda out of imported Japanese materials.