The crowd at this rustic restaurant is stylishly urban. Inspired by the proverbial "peasant" cuisine where meals were prepared in the kitchen hearth, chef-owner Frank DeCarlo cooks all of his wonderful food in a bank of wood- or charcoal-burning ovens, from which the heady aroma of garlic perfumes the room. Don't fill up on the crusty bread and fresh ricotta, though, or you'll miss out on other flavorful Italian fare like sizzling sardines that arrive in terra-cotta pots, or rotisserie lamb that's redolent of fresh herbs.
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