Terrence Brennan's classic French restaurant has a dignified and hushed atmosphere. His kitchen maintains a strong emphasis on contemporary Mediterranean cuisine and relies conspicuously on artisanal farmers and food producers. The menu is divided into four relatively small sections: Preludes, Pastas, Day Boats, and the Land, and you are invited to construct your own tasting by selecting from two to four sections. Some of the dishes are given confusing names. "Roquefort Parfait" is no such thing: it's a heap of grassy endive shards fluttered over a gentle sauterne gelée. The kitchen's spin on chicken Kiev is particularly brilliant: an heirloom chicken breast is pressed into a fat juicy tube and rolled in crushed cornflakes before it is deep-fried. Slice into the soft cylinder and it spills its luscious "liquid foie gras" filling. Don't miss the famous cheese course, which was practically invented here.
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