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Picholine Review

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Picholine

Fodor's Review:

Terrence Brennan recently rethought and redesigned his classic French restaurant, keeping the dignified and hushed atmosphere, and strengthening the kitchen's emphasis on contemporary Mediterranean cuisine and relying conspicuously on artisanal farmers and food producers. The menu is divided into four relatively small sections: Preludes, Pastas, Day Boats, and the Land, and you are invited to construct your own tasting by selecting from two to four sections. Some of the dishes are given confusing names. "Roquefort Parfait" is no such thing: it's a heap of grassy endive shards fluttered over a gentle sauternes gelée. The kitchen's spin on chicken Kiev is particularly brilliant: an heirloom chicken breast is pressed into a fat juicy tube and rolled in crushed cornflakes before it is deep-fried. Slice into the soft cylinder and it spills its luscious "liquid foie gras" filling. Don't miss the famous cheese course, which was practically invented here.

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