This local hangout, owned by Philippe Lajaunie since 1990, is boisterous and unpretentious—just like a true French brasserie. A good bet is steak-frites—with fries regarded by some as the best in New York. Other prime choices include crispy duck-leg confit with frisée salad, blood sausage with caramelized apples, and steak tartare, prepared table-side.
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