Sushi, like pizza, attracts plenty of opinionated fanatics. Stick to the excellent raw fish and specials here if you're a purist. Others might want to try one of the experimental rolls: the Blue Ribbon—lobster, shiso, and black caviar—is popular. The dark, intimate nooks, minimalist design, and servers with downtown attitude attract a stylish crowd that doesn't mind waiting for a table or for chilled sake served in traditional wooden boxes.
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