Tradition's the thing at this town-house landmark, a former speakeasy that opened in 1929. Chef John Greeley tries to satisfy everyone with standards like the famous '21' burger and Dover sole with brown butter, and more modern dishes, such as sauteed pork belly with butternut squash puree, but the food is almost secondary to the restaurant's storied past. Belongings donated by famous patrons—for example, John McEnroe's tennis racket or Howard Hughes's model plane—hang
from the ceiling. Men, a jacket is required, but you can leave your tie at home.