Don't ask for substitutions or sauce on the side at New York's most eccentric eatery because Kenny Shopsin, owner and chef, really may toss you out or ban you for life; somehow the attitude is part of the appeal here. Though the eclectic menu runs to literally hundreds of items—from pumpkin pancakes to chilaquiles, and from chili cheeseburgers to lamb-curry soups—even the strangest foods conjured up in his tight diner kitchen taste pretty great. The mac-and-cheese
pancakes have loyal followers (they're even better with hot sauce). The space in the Essex market is tiny, so expect to wait. Parties of more than four aren't accepted.