By converting a moribund 80-year-old Italian restaurant into a cozy hot spot, restaurateur Keith McNally has created yet another hit. Try early and often to score reservations, so that you can sample creations like buttery trout meunière, bone marrow on toast, expertly aged steaks, and the celebrated Black Label burger, a gorgeous assembly of meat topped with caramelized onions and—for the brave—an added layer of cheese. The bar room, with its original details
intact, is great for people-watching. Landing a table in the back room, with its original mural depicting West Village life and wall-to-wall photos of famous and infamous customers from eras gone by, makes sweet-talking the reservationist worth your while.