The brick-lined front room of this homey Roman eatery in NoLIta is a gathering spot for happy hour at the bar, where you'll find an appetizing selection of free small bites like frittata, white-bean salad, and ham-and-spinach tramezzini (finger sandwiches). The centerpiece of the large, skylighted back room is a wood-fired oven that turns out crisp, thin-crusted pizzas topped with quality ingredients like prosciutto and buffalo mozzarella. Service is solicitous
but not speedy, so you can linger over a bottle of wine from the copious selection. House-made pastas like garganelli with pork sausage and house-made ragu, and entrées like whole roasted fish with grilled lemon, are also excellent.