Don't let the name fool you; Jeffrey Zakarian's upstairs-downstairs urban canteen is neither pastoral nor rustic. The chef's sophomore restaurant has a split personality. Up a translucent staircase you'll find a fine-dining aerie with beautifully executed—and pricey—highbrow cuisine. The much more accessible downstairs Café, in dark masculine leather and wood, offers three meals a day including an exceptional brunch (don't miss the buttery take on shrimp and grits). Zakarian updates comfort food with refined ingenuity, delivering a Caesar salad with crisped prosciutto and a coddled egg cradled in cubed brioche toast. His "roast chicken" features succulent off-the-bone meat cut into angular shapes, rich cranberry relish, grilled red onion, grilled cornbread, and pitch-perfect al dente green beans.
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