Situated in the former space of the upscale Chinese restaurant 66, Matsugen is Jean-Georges's latest venture, offering authentic Japanese cuisine. The contemporary design, long communal dining table, and fish tank filled with unusual crustaceans is essentially the same as the restaurant's former incarnation, but the menu has a new life. Classic Japanese dishes are offered, such as sushi, sashimi, Wagyu beef, and shabu-shabu (where diners try their own hand at cooking lobster and pork loin in a pot of boiling water at their table). The real stars here, however, are the more than dozen takes on soba noodles, which are made from buckwheat flour—served hot, chilled, and with additions such as tofu, duck, yams, and prawns. The extensive sake menu makes for a nice accompaniment to the meal. If you're not in the mood to sit in the main dining room, the large bar area in the front of the restaurant has comfortable chairs and is ideal for lingering.
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