The entrance to Ed Brown's ambitious restaurant is through an inviting bar and lounge, an elegant spot to sip swanky cocktails such as the Wandering Poet (gin, sake, litchi, ginger, and lime) or to order off of Brown's unabashedly sophisticated New American menu. In fact, dining in the bar may not be a bad option: the large, bright dining room lacks the intimacy of the bar area, though its moderate decibel level will please noise-weary diners. Highlights of the menu include a creamy pumpkin risotto that makes a mouthwatering, shareable starter; tender lamb three ways with sheep's ricotta gnocchi, wild mushrooms, and braised lettuce; and cod dressed in a sake and black bean broth. The entrée prices may leave you wondering whether you have been sufficiently blown away, though. No matter what, save room for the mille-feuille dessert, a delightful work of architecture in chocolate and hazelnut.
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