Unusually comfortable burgundy banquettes, huge antiqued mirrors, and low lighting that makes everyone look fabulous characterize this Alsatian gem. Start with a house cocktail—say, L'Alsacien, in which the aperitif Belle de Brillet meets cognac, pear, and fresh lemon in a happy union. Standouts include the tarte flambé, a fromage-blanc-topped flat bread scattered with tawny caramelized onions and hunks of bacon. The choucroute garnie entrée comes in a cast-iron kettle that keeps it piping hot for the entire meal. Sausages, smoked pork breast, and pork belly are so carefully braised that everything comes out in perfect harmony. Delicious bread pudding is studded with strawberries.
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