The New York branch of Joël Robuchon's superluxurious tapas bar, inside the Four Seasons Hotel, features essentially the same food (with a more natural-hue decor) as the Paris original. And that, it turns out, is a very good thing. The perfectionist chef installed a longtime Japanese protégé to uphold the standards that can make a Robuchon meal a life-changing experience. Skip the regular-size appetizers and entrées. Instead, secure a seat at the pear-wood counter and cobble together your own small-plate feast. But be warned; with heady ingredients like Scottish langoustines (tempura fried), steak tartare (with hand-cut french fries) and foie gras (paired with caramelized eel), Robuchon's little bites come at a steep price.
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