Chef-owner Bill Telepan's eponymous eatery has brought some much-needed culinary zing to the Upper West Side (and it's a great place to go before Lincoln Center). The greenmarket-driven menu is heavy on the veggies (the seasonal vegetable starter wakes your palate right up), but fish lovers and first-timers should hook into the signature starter, the smoked trout paired with sweet apple sour cream. Anything on the menu that contains eggs, like the "egg-in-a-hole" served
with spinach and hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, is worth a try. There's the usual presence of foie gras and pork belly but Telepan does seafood very well (try the scallops). For dessert, a crunchy peanut-butter and gianduja duo with peanut brittle ice cream is sublime.