Telepan

Reserve

Telepan Review

Chef-owner Bill Telepan is a regular at the neighborhood greenmarket, and it shows in his seasonal, produce-driven menu, which is divided into three courses: appetizers of salads, light fish dishes, and soups; middle courses of eggs, pasta, or vegetables; and main courses of meat and fish. A trio of tiny amuses-bouches such as wild mushroom cappuccino arrives to tease your palate, and the servers are refreshingly well versed on the wine list. The menu features brook trout, served on celery-root blini with green-apple sour cream, a well-deserved favorite, as is anything on the menu that contains eggs, like the "egg-in-a-hole" served with spinach and hen-of-the-woods mushrooms. For dessert, a crunchy peanut-butter and milk-chocolate gianduja duo with peanut-brittle ice cream is sublime.