Chef-owner Bill Telepan's menu is divided into three courses: appetizers of salads, light fish dishes, and soups; middle courses of eggs, pasta, or vegetables; and main courses of meat and fish. House-smoked brook trout heads the menu. The fish is flaked and mounted on a celery-root blini with green-apple sour cream. Robiola cheese-stuffed tortellini are set in a Parmesan-infused chicken broth with shards of Swiss chard and tiny veal meatballs. Halibut comes encrusted with lemon thyme. For dessert, the dark-chocolate almond tart is sublime.
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