Chef-owner Bill Telepan's menu is divided into three courses: appetizers of salads, light fish dishes, terrines, and soups; middle courses of eggs, pasta, or vegetables; and main courses of meat and fish. House-smoked brook trout heads the menu. The fish is flaked and mounted on a celery root blini with green apple sour cream. Robiola cheese-stuffed tortellini are set in a Parmesan-infused chicken broth with shards of Swiss chard and tiny veal meatballs. Seared duck breast is flecked with pomegranate pods and served with black and gold rice, duck confit, and sweet baby turnips. For dessert, the sherry-custard tart is sublime: the custard is sandwiched between a disc of shortbread and a pecan cookie, and the plate is scattered with blood orange segments.
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