This warm, buzzy restaurant features comfortable wheat-color leather banquettes and, if you want to make friends, a communal table running down the center of the dining room. Chef Seamus Mullen spent two years tromping around Spanish kitchens, and he came to New York armed with dozens of ideas for classic tapas and even better midsize dishes and entrées. Fried quail eggs and chorizo on roasted bread are even better than they sound. Salt cod, suckling pig, and mushroom croquettes are perched on dabs of flavored aioli. Garbanzos al Pinotxo is a luscious mix of chickpeas, morcilla, a steamed hen's egg, and toasted pine nuts. Traditional churros come with a thick hot chocolate for dipping.
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