With clubby interiors by Jeffrey Beers and an adjoining lounge area, Porter House marks the splashy return to the scene of former Windows on the World chef Michael Lomonaco. Filling the meat-and-potatoes slot in the Time Warner Center's upscale "Restaurant Collection," the masculine throwback highlights American wines and pedigreed super-size meat. The neighborhood, long underserved on the steak-house front, has quickly warmed to Lomonaco's simple solid American fare. Begin with his smoky clams casino or rich tarragon-kissed oyster pan roast. Steaks are huge and expertly seasoned and come with the usual battery of à la carte sides—creamed spinach, roasted mushrooms, and mashed potatoes.
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