In a plush 120-seat dining room with just enough art-deco touches to harmonize with its Rockefeller Center setting, the sublime French cookery of Laurent Tourondel is on display. There is a decorous countenance to the room, but the staff is so friendly that the place could never be stuffy. Nineteen excellent French wines are available by the glass. Perfect oysters Rockefeller must be on the menu, naturally, and the oysters and cooked spinach are napped with béchamel just before roasting with results soothing and rich enough to comprise a lunch entrée. If it's on the menu, order braised rabbit nestled in mustard cream on a bed of fresh pappardelle, sprinkled with pitted cherries. Desserts like Floating Island—delicately baked meringue floating on a pond of crème anglaise—are embellished by a tangled flurry of spun sugar.
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