Buddakan

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Buddakan Review

Few—if any—restaurants in Manhattan can rival the 16,000-square-foot Buddakan in terms of sheer magnitude and buoyant theatricality. And in a neighborhood whose eateries often get by on sizzle alone, the food here has real substance as well. Restaurateur Steven Starr created a New York edition of his Philadelphia original. Here the upstairs bar is a great end-of-day meet-up spot for pert cocktails and appetizers, and the vast downstairs is like a dining hall in a medieval castle, complete with a communal table spanning the room. Co-executive chefs Yang Huang and Brian Ray prepare ethereal tuna spring rolls that are narrow flutes of ruby tuna tartare in a crisp contrapuntal fried shell, and edamame dumplings reveal a creamy, light green center. Crisp-tender sizzling short ribs are served with tender, wide noodles and highly comforting results, and there are dozens of other tempting dishes large and small. Considering the droves of patrons, service is surprisingly attentive.